title: Hokuriku Tales vol.3

Summary

A book of five stories about Fukui, Ishikawa and Toyama with useful data vol.3

Rice malt-based fermented food that combinessweetness and richnessDaikon-zushi is a popular homemade sushiSome fermented foods requireseveral years to matureOne of the best-known rice malt-based fermented foods is Kaburazushi.It is sometimes called a local food of Ishikawa Prefecture, but it isalso made in a region of Toyama Prefecture. It is a kind of Nare-zushi(rice malt-fermented fish and rice), which is said to be the original formof today’s sushi. To make Kabura-zushi, turnip is soaked in salt, cut intochunks, and cuts are then made to the turnip chunks. Slices of saltedfish are placed into the cuts and they are soaked in rice malt for aboutone week. Amberjack is the most popular fish for Kabura-zushi inIshikawa, while salmon and mackerel are also used in Toyama. Kaburazushican be prepared only in the wintertime and is almost a must forthe auspicious occasion of New Year holidays. Some who try it for thefirst time are shocked by the appearance because the sushi is served with ricemalt on it (not rinsed off). Once they try it, however, they are drawn into therichness and sourness of the rice malt, the crunchy turnip and the mouthful ofumami that the fish produces, all coming together in perfect combination.The origin of Kabura-zushi is not clear. Some say that in old times amberjackwas a luxury only the samurai class was allowed to enjoy, and so the commonpeople in town made Kabura-zushi to hide the fish meat in the cuts of the turnip.Similar to Kabura-zushi is Daikon-zushi which features radish and pickled driedherring. This was more common forcommon-class people. Both weremade at home in former times, buttoday they are commerciallyproduced by vegetable picklesmakers and others and are readilyavailable at department stores andspecialty food shops. Some traditionalrestaurants and sake pubs also servethese local specialties. Come toHokuriku and enjoy the localdelicacies where they are prepared.Besides Kabura-zushi, HokurikuSaba-no-Nare-zushi is a rice bran paste-basedoffers many other varieties of Narezushi.While they may look almostpickled mackerel from Obama City, Fukuithe same and are prepared in almost the same way, each of the three Hokurikuprefectures has its own Nare-zushi using different fish species etc. For instance,the Daimon district of Imizu City, Toyama is famous for its Ayu-zushi (ayu sweetfish), the former Notomachi area of Notocho Town, Ishikawa is known for its Ajino-Susu(horse mackerel), and Saba-no-Nare-zushi (mackerel) is prepared in thewinter in Fukui and in the summer in Toyama. They should all surprise youwith a savor that mixes the flavor of matured fish umami and the richness ofrice malt. They are not available all year round, but are well worth looking for.A whole fish pickled in rice bran paste is an exquisite specialtyNow, let us introduce to you fermented foods prepared with rice bran paste.Non-sliced pickled fish soaked in rice bran paste may appear somewhat“weird”at first look. Some stores sell the pickled fish one by one out of pails filled withrice bran paste. Put it in your mouth to reveal a flavor you can’t find anywhereelse. The taste is rather“strong and lasting”(meaning“salty”in the Ishikawa20 Hokuriku Tales vol.3